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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. However, nestled high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The honour has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary achievement.